@conference{
author = "Ivković, Đurđa and Ristivojević, Petar and Krstić-Ristivojević, Maja",
year = "2023",
abstract = "The cosmetic industry is currently experiencing substantial growth, accompanied by a surge in the number of consumers. Due to natural ingredients' safety and efficiency, an increasingly prominent trend in this industry is the design of herbal-based cosmetic products and formulations. To meet demand, integrating innovative natural resources like plant-based formulations is essential [1]. Skin ageing-related enzymes, elastase and tyrosinase, contribute to the emergence of aesthetic issues such as wrinkles, freckles, and loss of elasticity, as well as hyperpigmentation and melasma [2]. Hence, there is an increasing focus on finding inhibitors for enzymes associated with skin ageing. The fact is that plant metabolites, particularly phenolic acids and flavonoids, are frequently concentrated in plant leaves and flowers. Accordingly, we assessed the inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase in seventeen particularly selected methanolic extracts obtained from various flower petal varieties cultivated in Serbia. Our analysis revealed that petals exhibit significantly more pronounced inhibitory effects, expressed as IC50 values, on elastase compared to tyrosinase. White peony (Paeonia lactifora) (230 ± 1 μg/mL), pelargonium (Pelargonium peltatum) (206 ± 3 μg/mL) and purple rose (Rosa centifolia, purple) (222 ± 8 μg/mL) emerged as the most potent elastase inhibitors, surpassing the reference compound epigallocatechin gallate (348 ± 9 μg/mL). Additionally, the lowest IC50 value for tyrosinase inhibition was attributed to lilac (Syringa vulgaris) petal extract (272 ± 28 μg/mL), which was compared to the standard compound kojic acid (50 ± 14 μg/mL). In conclusion, white peony, pelargonium, purple rose, and lilac represent promising candidates for further investigation and incorporation into cosmetic products, showcasing their potential to effectively address skin-related concerns.
References
1. C. Lourenço-Lopes, M. Fraga-Corral, M. Carpena, Resour. 2020, 9, 101.
2. I. Chiocchio, M. Mandrone, C. Sanna, A. Maxia, M. Tacchini, F. Poli, Ind. Crops Prod. 2018, 122, 498.
Acknowledgements
This work was supported by The Science Fund of the Republic of Serbia, Serbian Science and Diaspora Collaboration Program, No. 6389927, Ministry of Science, Technological Development and Innovation of Republic of Serbia Contract numbers 451-03-47/2023-01/200168 and 451-03-47/2023-01/200288.",
journal = "9th Conference of Young Chemists of Serbia, Book of Abstracts",
title = "Elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of plant petals cultivated in Serbia",
number = "132",
url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_cherry_6224"
}